How to Make a Nun’s Habit

by Sister Julie on March 24, 2008

Over the last year I’ve received requests from folks about how to make habits and where to find sewing patterns and fabric. I’m hoping that you might have some suggestions for me to pass along to these folks.

I would especially like to help a woman who wrote me last week. She has volunteered to help a religious community by making their habits for them. The community is Cistercian and is having a difficult time finding the black and white fabric used to make their habit. I would be most grateful if you have any suggestions as to where to get fabric (keeping in mind the value of frugality), patterns for habits, and any other suggestions you might have for this woman who is trying to learn as much as she can (she has limited time talking with the nuns because they are cloistered).

If you happen to have some expertise in this area and would be open to connecting with this woman, I know she’d be so thankful — just let me know and I’ll hook you up.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions, ideas, etc. that you can offer. Sister Julie

{ 40 comments… read them below or add one }

Sr. Mary Catharine 03.24.08 at 7:50 am

Buona Pasqua. Sister, please have her email me and I can give her resources.

Dennis Fontana 03.24.08 at 8:29 am

Good Morning,

In response to your request for patterns, fabric and the like, I can only say that the market is an extremely narrow one, and the makers of habits are quite reluctant to divulge/share their knowledge. As a member of the Secular Franciscans, I and others are pursuing the quest to resurrect the original habit of the Brothers and Sisters of Penance of St. Francis, namely, a simple tunic and cord, without the cowl and hood. At http://www.glenfont.com/ they’ll make you any habit you’d like, dating as far back as four centuries. They will not sell patterns, fabrics or other secrets of the trade, as it is their primary business in assisting to sustain themselves. I’ve found other manufacturers of religious habits to respond in like kind. In short, if you have business for us, we’ll talk to you. Otherwise, don’t bother us. Thanks. Many contemplative nuns/monks sew religious habits to sustain themselves as well. All I can say is,” pray on it, and the Holy Spirit will lead you to your source. When you do, contact me at the internet address, above.

Pax et bonum,
Dennis,sfo

Sister Julie 03.24.08 at 8:04 am

And Happy Easter to you and your sisters. Thank you so much for responding. I’ll forward your email. Sister Julie

Br. Dominic-Michael OHS 03.25.08 at 8:03 am

I have bent myself to the task of sewing habits. My advice is to spend a lot of time looking at images of traditional nuns in habit, then spend an equal amount of time scouring pattern catalogues and used pattern sites like http://www.oldpatterns.com . Choose a dress pattern, or skirt and bodice pattern, that most closely resembles what you are aiming for in your size or larger.
Sewing is a creative process, very few people adhere absolutely to the pattern details, this is the fun of sewing your own, so with forethought you can adapt these regular patterns to other designs…what is a habit but a certain style of dress? (and this goes for male habits too).
My own habit is “Linen”, actually a 100% polyester linen lookalike that is machine wash and wear. my scapular is broadcloth. cincture is cotton rope dyed blue. I also have an underskirt that is heavy cotton twill and brushes the tops of my shoes, black as a cassock as this is the purpose it serves. It hides my legs and adds a more formal look when serving or preaching.
I suggest plain heavy fabrics, cotton twills, linen if you can afford it, or lookalike linen if you can’t. Fancy design or close tailoring is not needed, and is to be avoided. Look at Mennonite women for another example.
Whatever you do, use top quality thread and do a good job of stitching. Treat the Habit just as you would a vestment such as a chasuble or cope etc. Durability is essential and it is easier to spend an extra 20 minutes sewing carefully than hours later mending seams that give out.
I’ve never tried making a veil and “appurtenances thereto” – for obvious reasons – monks wear a hood.

Jen 03.25.08 at 12:36 pm

Just a thought but do they have a SCA (society for creative anachronists) nearby? A lot of the members make their own period clothing. If they can’t track down patterns and fabrics, I don’t know of anyone who can.

Jen 03.25.08 at 12:36 pm

Er, SCA chapter, that is. Teach me to comment without finishing my coffee…

k. edwards 09.18.08 at 5:20 pm

hi-know this is an odd request–am looking for the head gear for a civil war era nun for a local film. Any suggestions–have had no luck making our own–have photos of the real sister–ours looked funny.
Thanks for any help,
K. Edwards

Sister Julie 09.19.08 at 3:41 am

It kinda depends on which community of nuns because the head gear varied across congregations. What does the rest of the habit look like? Where is the nun located? or where is she from? That would give us an indication of what community she likely belonged to and therefore what her head gear might have looked like. Blessings on your search.

L. Pregenzer 10.12.08 at 6:44 pm

You might want to look into the Daughters of Charity (St Elizabeth Anne Seton) in Emmitsburg, Maryland. This area (near Gettysburg) is steeped in Civil War History.

Anne 10.24.08 at 8:35 am

Sr Julie,

I came across one of your blog entries from awhile back where a woman was looking to help sisters make their habits.

I have a similar problem, but it’s on a smaller scale. The Sisters of Notre Dame in Covington are looking to have a doll in their archives with their habit. The problem is, they don’t know anyone who can make a habit for this doll that would be able to make it without a pattern. Where might I look to find a pattern for a doll habit that is exactly the same as the SNDs? They don’t even have a pattern for the original habit that the Sisters wore anymore, so they can’t look at that and make it smaller.

Do you know anyone who can make this for us by looking at a doll that has on what we’re looking for?

Peace,
Anne
To Jesus Through Mary

Sister Julie 10.24.08 at 8:46 am

Honestly, I don’t know, Anne, but I’m hoping others will respond here with some suggestions.

Katie 11.11.08 at 3:32 pm

to K. Edwards:

I can help you with habits for sisters of the Civil War era. The archives of the Daughters of Charity is closed at present and they get so many requests they are unlikely to respond. You can email me at katie.carroll (at) comcast (dot) net .

Mary 11.13.08 at 8:49 pm

Anyone have a habit or pattern for the Carmelites – St. Therese of Lisieux’s especially. Need it for a church play.

Sr Margaret 11.28.08 at 12:13 am

With regard to Cistercian community in need of habits or patterns. We make our own and if you wish you may pass along our e-mail and we will do what we can for them.

Always In Christ

Sharon 11.30.08 at 10:37 pm

Hi Sister Julie
I came across your site by chance. Would you happen to know if Anne is still looking for someone to make a doll habit for The Notre Dame Sisters at Covington, Ky?
I dress nun dolls and would be glad to dress one.
God Bless

Sister Julie 12.01.08 at 4:53 am

Hi Sharon, I’m not sure, but I’ll send her an email and tell her to check out your comment. Thanks for being willing to help.

Robbie 12.01.08 at 6:09 pm

I am making a habit out of excess cloth my workplace has thrown out. Both are black and white pieces of cotton. They are excellent for making habits. Habits, like Japanese Kimono, are pretty much seamless and aren’t difficult to make. The wimple is pretty much the same in most habits. The veil is varied but pretty much uniform. The scapular also is varied. Good Luck to those who wish to make them. It takes ingenuity and creativity and imagination to make these habits!

Margaret 02.18.09 at 9:20 am

I have an extensive “convent sewn” pre-Vatican II nun doll collection and have studied the techniques and details of each nun doll.

If you use white linen for the coif (material around the face) and guimpe (collar), it will look “authentic”.

The best method of making the coif is to make a “hood” with a drawstring in the back. This will keep the coif snug and secure. It will not slip.

For the habit dress such as the Sisters of Saint Joseph, Ursulines, Sisters of Mercy wore — make a bodice with very wide sleeves. Onto the bodice sew a pleated dress — 6 pleats would be enough on each side — a center with 3 pleats on each side — I would make the pleats deep so they keep their shape.

Measure and hem before you set the pleats.

The veil should have a casing and I used a piece of thick black elastic to structure the veil.

The veil should always have a casing and be structure — you could also use black cardboard that is wired with black tape the shape the veil.

If you look at photos of pre-Vatican II nuns, you can get further details.

But I think with the information I gave, you could make a creditable habit.

Margaret 02.18.09 at 9:23 am

P.S.:

Under the wide sleeves, you could cut down black stockings and wear this as “undersleeves” to the elbow.

Or you could sew narrow undersleeves with an elastic casing at the elbow.

Most nuns had a habit with very wide sleeves with undersleeves.

Pepper 02.22.09 at 11:01 am

Nun’s habits were fashioned after mourning clothing, or so I have read. The headgear was also fashioned after the time in which the community came together. Besides the linen around the face and hair, the outer headpiece was frequently fashioned to block peripheral vision. Check out “The Nun’s Story” on DVD – very nice habits, indeed!

Sis. ann 02.26.09 at 11:01 am

Need help sewing a franciscan nun habit. for a new sister. she does not know we are doing this for her . it has been hard to keep this from her
but fun at the same time .The big problem is all of us had ours made and now the nice women who had made ours has movied away.One of the sister thank if she had a pattern that she could make the habit for her . Or if you know anyone that can makes habits would be helpful as
will. Thank you and god bless you all the days of your life
Sis. ann

Daughterofst.francis 03.18.09 at 3:41 pm

I too am looking into Franciscan spirituality and a habit of sorts but one for Lay Associates. For me this has become a modest brown jumper, white blouse and black headscarf.
Pax et Bonum

Maria 03.23.09 at 8:26 am

Hi Sr. Julie,

I was wondering what kinds of fabrics Sisters use for their habits. For example, the Dominicans, what kind of fabric do they use to make their habit? Which fabrics are more durable than others and which fabrics are more light weight but still durable? Thanks and God bless!

Pax Christi,
Maria

Kathryn 03.23.09 at 8:45 am

Can anyone suggest the name of a fabric to be used for a simple veil? I am a hermitess and must sew my own habit.

About the veil, I was able to purchase one from Fitzgerald before they went out of business. It’s a black material, very thin, soft and fluid, and it attaches in the back of the head with velcro. I was told it looks like “crepe de chine” but that particular fabric is way too shiny.

Any suggestions?

Pax.

angel 03.23.09 at 1:09 pm

My name is Angel and I wear a religious habit….I made it myself and have permission to wear it….and have been making my own habit’s for 16 years……they’re really not that hard to make….you can use your inventivness,if you can find a picture of the nun’s habit…..I don’t belong to any order of known nun’s…but I used parts of different commercial patterns and my inventivness,to create a nun’s habit…I use teashot fabric or something like it(50 percent polyester and 50 percent cotton blend) it can not be thin material….I made a gown,scapular,cape,veil and long slip,as the habit is full length and cord for gown…..I hope this helps…..Angel

Sister Gayle OSF 03.24.09 at 7:32 am

I think Fitzgerald’s is still in business, but limtited to a few days a week. One of our sisters just purchased veils forms from them. Maybe that helps!

Sister Gayle OSF 03.27.09 at 6:40 am

I just got more current info about Fitzgerald’s, they ARE going out of business. They notified my Sister when she got her order. She’s seeing if anyone else out there is still in business.

little sister 04.27.09 at 5:06 pm

Most of the original habits were made of fine wool serge, an expensive but practically industructible fabric. These habits might be cleaned only once a year with a soap and water shower and then allowed to drip dry. Think Woolite in a sprinkling can or garden bottle-type sprayer. Never scrub wool, friction makes it shrink. Dry cleaning was considered too expensive. Undergarments and dress shields were laundered frequently to keep outerwear clean. Some cloistered orders wore coarser fabrics. Fastenings were usually pins, hooks and eyes or ties. Undergarments were homemade of muslin in white or gray. A lighter fabric, literally called “nun’s veiling” was used for some of the sheerer veils.

Coifs, wimples, bandeaus and collars were made from linen, some items very heavily starched. In the 1950s and 60s, a substitute material manufactured from linen bonded to celluloid was very popular, since it held its crisp shape and was very easy to clean. Unfortunately, it was discovered that it was also highly flammable and so was abandoned. I don’t think the Cistercians were ever into heavy starch. In my dim recollection, their habit and accessories were soft looking.

In the spirit of poverty, most congregations of sisters made their own habits, and only ordered their distinctive white headpieces from a commercial manufacturer. Out of humility, no sister worked on the habit she personally wore, but sewed for another sister. Each motherhouse should have kept at least one habit and pattern of their traditional habit. Many of those habits changed several times over the years, even before the innovations of the 60s. If a pattern is not available, you might purchase a nun doll from a company like Blessings. Be quick, they are going out of business soon.

You might ask your library if they can obtain a copy of “Guide to the Catholic Sisterhood in the United States” by Thomas P. McCarthy. This was printed in several editions through the 1950s and 60s. It contains good photographs and descriptions of traditional habits with their details for over a hundred orders. No patterns, but if you sew, you might get a good grasp of the way these habits are put together from the pictures. If your library doesn’t have a copy, ask them if they can do an interlibrary loan.

As a last resort, you might visit a good nun doll museum and take plenty of photos. Good luck.

Patti B 05.23.09 at 11:43 pm

Just curious. Does Fitzgerald’s have a website? I’ve been trying to find them for years, and thought they were long out of business. Is there an address where I could contact them before they go out of business? Also, when I was in the postulancy I was asked to contact a business called either Patrick’s or Fitzpatrick’s. They sold the same type of products as Fitzgerald’s. Has anyone heard of them? I’m trying to find a company that sells veil wires. Does anyone know where I can get them?
Thanks

Sister Gayle OSF 05.26.09 at 6:49 am

No, they don’t have a website. Believe me, I had looked.

Another Sister Julie, CSSF 05.27.09 at 8:58 am

Our original habit was shaped like the Tau cross. Inside at waist level, near the center line front and back, were two tapes to adjust the size. When you tied them together, they formed deep pleats. Over this went a scapular. I’m not sure how many tunics were worn underneath. The ones I saw were blue or charcoal grey and of cheap cotton. There were also brown sleevelets, a Franciscan cord, a wooden rosary with a medallion of O.L. of Czestohowa, and a simple wooden crucifix hanging from a tape around the neck. Under the veil was a hood as described above, but the panels that ran down the face and neck were heavily starched (I heard the term “cement head” bandied about by the older sisters!) There was a heavily starched band across the forehead also. The veil was pinned to the top of the hood, the band, and on both shoulders of the habit. (I still wondered how the sisters could move their head or neck with all that starch and with all those pins!) There was a little flap to the front of the veil that the sisters would lower for different reasons: When they were on retreat, when they were somewhere they shouldn’t be like (*gasp!*) a restaurant!, or whenever the reader in the refectory spoke the names of Jesus, Mary or Joseph. (Around Christmastime, this created quite a breeze a mealtime, if I can believe the tales some of the older sisters!) When it was cold, or from Sept. 29 to May 18, the sisters also wore a brown cape. I think it was fingertip length, but the sisters always kept their arms in their sleeves, so I can’t be sure.

When we modified the habit, our veil forms were made out of Clorox bottles and white shoestrings. Imagine! I’m sure those were so veryhot, especially for our sisters in the South! Later we bought the forms (and wires). These were mesh caps, so there was at least some ventilation in them. We used pins with black tips on them–one each at the ears and one on the top. My students used to ask me if the pins went into my head. I asked them if their ears bled when they changed their pierced earrings. They of course answered no. I then replied, “Well, just like you, I hit the same hole each morning so the blood doesn’t gush out.” (Credit my dear classmate Sister Margaret for that gem!) Then I’d pull the cap away from my head and show them that the veil was pinned to the hat.

I entered in the era of drip-dry habits. Fabrics used were (ugh) polyester doubleknit, gabradine, baby gabradine, bengaline, and anything you could find in the correct “cloister brown” color (beige or taupe were also allowed). Now we had added the optional habit of simple, professional clothing in brown, beige, black or white. What makes us uniform is the style of the crucifix we wear and our simple profession band, as well as the charism we exemplify.

Vicki 06.08.09 at 2:03 am

I have also offered to make our sister their habits but would love to find a pattern somewhere it would save trying to make it from scatch.

If anyone can help I would be eternally gratefully.

God Bless

Marguerite 06.08.09 at 5:38 pm

I enjoyed reading this discussion. I did a presentation recently on the contributions of Catholic sister-nurses during the Civil War. I made the presentation dressed as a sister. It was fasinating researching and attempting to duplicate the habit and the rosary. On the advice of a Sister of Charity of the white coronette, I did not attempt to reproduce the coronette; however, I did take a black bonnet along to represent the Sisters of Charity of Cincinnati.

Sr Bev 06.09.09 at 10:51 pm

It looks like many have the same problem.
I’ve been asked to sew habits for our dispersed order and can’t find any premade.
The answer seems to be in simplicity; you might find a pattern for a Palestinian thobe, which is a plain long tent-dress with long sleeves. Some have gussets or frontal inserts but easy sewing. Adding pleats or extra width shouldn’t be a problem. Scapulas are very simple just long long aprons, some have side ties, some don’t. They may be held in place by a rope girdle, cincture, or belt. Material in these days of variable indoor preset temperatures (for those of us who work in the outside world), should be half poly, half cotton. Colour is your own selection but I’d keep away from white, no matter how neat it looks, we don’t have servants or time for extra washing! In winter we may wear warm track pants underneath, and thermals, with the option of a long cape and long dark scarf. In summer some tend to dispense with the heavier habit and retain the scapular with dark slacks and a white blouse as it can get very hot here in Australia. Footwear is flat, dark, and practical, closed for winter, sandals for summer. As I’m about to venture into the sewing for our order, feel free to enquire.

Sr. Helga 06.15.09 at 7:56 am

Depending on the syle of habit, like most people said, some commercial patterns can be helpful and you can just adapt them. When trying to sew something particularly difficult or new, I just sew it out of the cheapest fabric I can find like muslin. Also, if you’re trying to make a cowl neck, remember to cut it on the bias, I learned the hard way.

Both companies, Fitzgerald’s and Fitzpatrics have closed. However, the veil forms can be made out of mesh material. You can find it at uphosltery fabric stores. It’s the stuff they use to make umbrella’s for patio sets.

Patt B. 06.16.09 at 10:24 pm

Sorry to hear that both Fitzgerald’s and Fitzpatrics have closed. Does anyone have any idea what type of metal that veil wires are made from? I remember them as being very easy to bend, so they were easy to make comfortable. I plan to start covering my head full time in accordance with 1 Corinthians 11, and the call to pray at all times. I think a veil wire would be very helpful in keeping the covering in place, and comfortable. I’ve tried a plastic hair band, and a springy wire hair band, but they both give me headaches as they are tight. Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Karen 06.23.09 at 1:36 pm

I have a left of field suggestion…
I know its a little different than the other suggestions but the costume designer for the movie “Sister Act” with Whopi Goldberg was Molly Maginnis. Those costumes looked very similar to how the habit I remember the lovely teaching nuns in school wearing in the 1960’s. I just did a quick bit of web research and it appears she is represented by the Innovative Artists Agency in L.A. if anyone wants to contact her to ask her about how they were made. Phone: (212) 253-6900
Web: http://www.innovativeartists.com As they had real Sisters as technical advisors in that movie it is likely they were accurate.
Ok, with that left field thought out of the way…It is also possible for many competent seamstress’ to “reverse engineer” clothing if you give them an example into their hands. This is even easier for them if its “an old one” that they can unpick and trace a new pattern. This may help if no pattern can be found quickly enough to meet a need.
+

Sister Teresa Grace, C.R. 06.24.09 at 6:27 pm

I’ve learned a lot reading about making habits! What a great discussion! I found the web site of old patterns very helpful. We are also looking for a company that sells habits. We are in the process of making our own, but not everyone has that skill. Thanks for your web site, Sr. Julie! It’s terrific!

Mother Alexandra 07.01.09 at 8:35 am

Thank you, Julie for your web site.
I have had to learn to make my own habits. There are no patterns available but other patterns can be adapted as others have stated. I started with a shirt pattern that I liked, fixed the collar and sleeves accordingly, and then extended it. In the interest of saving time, I would like to find a Benedictine monastery of men or women who would allow me to buy just the black tunics. I am an Orthodox nun and that would be suitable for me. If anyone knows of such a source, please let me know. I make my head coverings.
Fabric is always difficult. I look for something that is mostly natural, light and breathes, being careful not to purchase anything that will be see-through. (That could be a real problem for a nun!) Stores sometimes do not sell what I need in black, so I have learned to shop online, frequenting vendors which will send a swatch. Usually, it is a minimal price.

Mother Alexandra 07.01.09 at 3:13 pm

Dear Sister Julie,
I notice that I did not write “sister” in my above post. Mea culpa.
Mother Alexandra

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